“Ever
homey, ever elegant, ever irresistible, this is the dish
that helped make chef Robuchon’s reputation. Clever man
that he is, he realized early on that if you give people
potatoes, potatoes, and more potatoes, they’ll be eternally
grateful, forever fulfilled.”
From “Simply French, Patricia Wells presents
the cuisine of Joel Robuchon
1991, William Morrow and Company, Inc.
2 pounds baking
potatoes, such as Idaho Russets
3/4 to 1 1/4 cups whole milk
About 16 tablespoons, 1 cup, unsalted butter, chilled, cut
into pieces
Sea salt to taste
Scrub the potatoes,
but do not peel them. Place the potatoes in a large pot,
add salted water, 1 tablespoon salt per quart of water,
to cover by at least 1 inch. Simmer, uncovered, over moderate
heat until a knife inserted into a potato comes away easily,
20 to 30 minutes.
Drain the potatoes as soon as they are cooked. If they are
allowed to cool in the water, the potatoes will end up tasting
reheated.
Meanwhile, in
a large saucepan, bring the milk just to a boil over high
heat. Set aside.
As soon as the
potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel them. Pass the
potatoes through the finest grid of a food mill into a large
heavy-bottomed saucepan set over low heat. With a wooden
spatula, stir the potatoes vigorously to dry them, 4 to
5 minutes. Now begin adding about 12 tablespoons of the
butter, little by little, stirring vigorously until each
batch of butter is thoroughly incorporated; the mixture
should be fluffy and light. Then slowly add about three
fourths of the hot milk in a thin stream, stirring vigorously
until the milk is thoroughly incorporated.
Pass the mixture
through a flat fine mesh, drum, sieve, into another heavy
bottomed saucepan. Stir vigorously, and if the puree seems
a bit heavy and stiff, add additional butter and milk, stirring
all the while. Note: few of us have a real French flat bottomed
screen for scraping potato puree. Simply use any mesh sieve
you have in the kitchen and press down on the potato puree
as you push it through the sieve. This second step of pureeing
is the true secret behind Chef Robuchon’s recipe.
Taste for seasoning.
The puree may be made up to 1 hour in advance. Place in
the top of a double boiler, uncovered, over simmering water.
Stir occasionally to keep smooth.
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