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Pot Roast Revisited

  by David Ross
     
  Often labeled by those who don't know as a "tough cut," the Pot Roast is anything but. Like its cousin the Short Rib, a Pot Roast, when braised slowly over low heat, is a delicious cut of beef that sings with juicy flavor. It will, literally, melt in your mouth.

Unfortunately, many have never tasted this delectable cut of meat at its finest, owing in part to the horrendous methods of cookery inflicted upon the poor Pot Roast.

Tell the family that "tonight we are having Pot Roast" and it instantly evokes thoughts of Charlie Chaplin and Mack Swain eating boot leather in the 1925 classic The Gold Rush-- man relegated to gnawing on cowhide to survive the bitter cold of the Alaskan Klondike.

Having suffered from some bad childhood memories, I myself was not of the Pot Roast persuasion until recently.

Charlie Chaplin samples a bit of shoe leather in "The Gold Rush" (1925)Most of our tastes are formed at an early age by the foods our mothers place on the dinner table. My taste memories of Pot Roast fell into the aforementioned realm of Mr. Chaplin's film -- eating tough, cheap meat to survive. I can thank the glory days of the 1950's for that.

Shortly after World War II, the Reynolds Aluminum Company directed its attentions away from the manufacture of arms to the research and development of cheap products for the home. Americans were flocking to newly built homes in "suburbia" and housewives were eager for convenient methods of putting dinner on the table.

"Reynolds Wrap" aluminum foil made it possible to cook complete meals in one foil pouch-and leftovers could simply be left in the pouch and popped into the freezer.

As technology progressed, Reynolds debuted the "Oven Bag." A novel concept at the time, the "Oven Bag" was, and to this day still is, billed as "heat-resistant nylon oven bags for cooking warm, hearty dinners without basting or tending. Simply put chicken or meat in the oven bag along with your favorite vegetables, sauce or spices, place it in a baking pan and pop it in the oven. Dinner will come out juicy and delicious with no messy pan to scrub."

The "Oven Bag" invaded the homes of America, and the Ross household, and for years would prove to be the bane of the pot roast. Only in more recent times have American cooks awakened to the realization that a good Pot Roast is not something cooked for 45 minutes in a plastic bag with a mush of stewed carrots.

My mother was enthralled with the convenience of cooking an entire meal in one bag, a fascination which led, inevitably, to our fateful date with a pot roast.

We looked on in awe when our mother brought the roast to the table and opened the bag, releasing the fragrant steam of roasted meat and vegetables. Although no one uttered a word, I think we all thought the same thing after the first bite, "This is the worst meat I have ever tasted: dry and stringy. The vegetables are tasteless and I detect a strong smell of plastic!"

In the ensuing 40 years, I never attempted to prepare a Pot Roast. Nevertheless, time heals the scars of childhood food ventures.

In recent years, Americans have renewed their interest in "comfort foods," and the pot roast has found a new audience.

Chefs know what sells in today's restaurants, and they use some dark little tricks to fool us. Why do you think so many restaurants are serving up $35.00 plates of "Braised Beef Shoulder on a Bed of Truffled Mashed Potatoes?" It is my friends, merely a plate of good old-fashioned pot roast with some fancy mashed potatoes.

Beef Chuck Roast (rolled)To make a good meal, one must first consider the best part of the cow for pot roast. The "chuck" is the shoulder area of the animal and offers up the best cuts of meat for the dish -- 7 Blade and Blade Roast, Shoulder Roast, Chuck Roast and Boneless Chuck. Any of these cuts will produce a good finished pot roast.

Cuts from the "chuck" offer a balance of fat, meat and muscle, lending itself to a slow braising method of cooking to tenderize the meat and draw out the flavor.

You must use an ovenproof, heavy, deep stockpot that is large enough to hold at least a 5lb. pot roast. I prefer to use a 12-quart Le Creuset stockpot. The cast iron of the stockpot "breathes" in the oven, allowing for an exchange between the hot air of the oven and the moist air within the pot.

Now, dispel any thoughts you have of eating the vegetables that cook in the pot with the meat. Vegetables are added to the braising liquid only as a flavoring and thickening agent. The vegetables are strained out of the liquid, producing a rich and flavorful gravy.

Like any good braised meat, low heat and time is the key. Do not rush dinner to the table for the sake of convenience. In fact, pot roast is best when made a day ahead and allowed to cool overnight in the refrigerator before reheating and serving on day two.

A good pot roast cooks for a minimum of 3 hours and up to 6 hours. Carrots do not tend to hold up too well after 6 hours in the oven! If you want to thoroughly enjoy the flavor of vegetables, cook them separately. Roasted Pearl Onions add a sweet flavor note to the rich flavor of pot roast.

Traditionally, pot roast is served with mashed potatoes, though I fancy buttered egg noodles bathed in butter and sprinkled with fresh thyme and parsley with mine.

Stay home tonight and prepare a pot roast for the family. They may wince for just a moment, but after one bite, you will win their hearts and will never have to ask for help cleaning the kitchen.

Pot Roast

Buttered Egg Noodles

Roasted Pearl Onions

 
     
 
 
     

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