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Ask Isabella

  Tiffani, the intern, is a bit bent out of shape this week. Apparently Isabella Beeton (who has selected Tiffani as the likeliest vessel for channeling, for some reason) took it into her head to show up during one of the poor dear's dates. According to Tiffani, 19th century food mavens do not make good third wheels. The rest of us are still waiting for Isabella to show up when Tiffani is making the coffee. To find out about Isbella's corporeal life click here. Otherwise, read on. And if you have a question for our irascible foodie spirit send it here...we'll make sure she gets it.
     
 

Why do recipes that call for baking soda usually also call for cream of tartar? And what is "cream of tartar" anyway?
Liz S., Seattle, Wa

Cream of tartar is refined from the grunge that is left on the inside of wine barrels after the wine has been poured out. Honestly. I know it sounds unlikely, but there you go. The chemical name for it is potassium bitartrate and, as generations of cooks know, it is added to baking soda because it stabilizes the air bubbles, making the rise more secure. It's also used when beating egg whites for meringue for much the same reason. Of course the real question is, who on earth figured this out? Who first looked at the dried up crud on the inside of a wine cask and said, "Hmm…I think I'll add that to my meringues today."? It's one of those culinary imponderables, along with such eternal questions as who first thought that artichokes might be edible.

My sister-in-law always sets the table with the knife blades facing out. I was raised to believe that they should face in towards the plate. Who is right?
Kelly M., Atlanta, Ga

You are. Your sister-in-law is apparently hoping that her guests will slit their wrists on the flatware before dinner, thus saving the expense of an extra plate. Does she do this all the time, or only for family dinners? The habit is not uncommon, of course, but one has to wonder why it is done. After all, setting the knife with the blade facing out not only makes no sense from a utilitarian standpoint (you'd have to pick up the knife and then turn it in your hand for it to be in the correct position for cutting), it also offends the aesthetic sense of those of us who were raised to possess such a thing. Now, back in the 18th century it was briefly fashionable to place the forks with their tines facing down so that they wouldn't catch the long lace cuffs of the gentlemen, but people throughout history have tended to maintain a healthy respect where knives are concerned.

Read last week's column here.

 

 
     
 
 
     
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