The “thread” stage of candy is those varieties
cooked to no more than 234º. Little rounds of soft dinner
mints are included in this group of candies.
The “soft ball” stage of candy is cooked to no
more than 240º and includes pillow-soft gems like pralines
and marshmallows.
The “firm ball” stage goes up in temperature to
248º and counts caramels and nougats as two of the more famous
varieties.
The “hard ball” stage heats to 266º and moves
into the realm of the most popular candies like saltwater taffy
and festive popcorn balls.
The “soft-crack” stage moves up to 290º and
this is the stage where we enter into the crunches and toffees
of the candy world.
The “hard-crack” stage is the heavyweight class
of candy that cooks upwards of 290º and up to 310º.
One of the tough as nails candies that resides in this category
is the classic peanut brittle.
Along with the temperature of the cooking candy
in the pot, some holiday bakers believe that the weather plays
an integral role in the success of the finished candy product.
My Grandmother never made fudge on a rainy day. In fact, she never
made any type of Christmas candy on a rainy day. No fudge, no
divinity, no penuche, no caramel fondant, and no soft pastel after-dinner
mints. Not a one was made on a rainy day. Snow, sleet, ice or
sun passed the weather muster with Grandmother for candy making,
just no rain. Not even a drop. If it rained, the jar of corn syrup
was kept in the cupboard.
Grandmother
felt that rain added too much moisture to the air, which didn’t
allow for the sugar to properly melt during the cooking process.
If the sugar didn’t melt just right, she would be left with grainy
fudge and that would have been a total embarassment. Grandma could
never, ever show her face in town if she served the neighbors
grainy fudge.
Grandmother lived on a ranch in the small Central
Oregon town of Prineville. This was long before the days when
one ordered peanut brittle made in Texas over the Internet, then
had Federal Express fly it out from Memphis and deliver it to
the farm next door. In more naïve times, people gave neighbors
holiday gifts that were made by hand; often candy, cookies or
preserves.
Try as I did for years and years, I could never
make the grade when it came to making fudge as good as Grandmother’s.
My fudge was grainy, regardless of the weather on the day I made
it, whether I used pure Hawaiian cane sugar, baker’s sugar or
generic brand, a copper pot, a non-stick one or a cheap aluminum
saucepan -- nothing I used made a great batch of fudge. I just
couldn’t make my fudge taste as creamy, chocolatey and fudgy as
Grandmother’s.
I
did cheat for a few years. Rather than make fudge the old-fashioned
way -- meaning lots of elbow grease to constantly stir the fudge
until it is absolutely the perfect consistency and right temperature
-- I “fudged” so to speak, and used the recipe on the back of
a jar of marshmallow crème.
My Mother warned me that while this would produce
a smooth fudge, it would be akin to defaming Grandmother’s candy
legacy by taking the low-road shortcut and using marshmallow crème.
Grandmother Ross gave equal opportunity to six
the basic categories of candy making during the holidays. The
result was a towering silver candy dish of six tiers of sugary
sweets, each level giving homage to the Gods of Christmas Candy.
Personally, I like any candy, regardless of the
weather on the day it was made or the technical name associated
with it based on the temperature at which the candy was cooked.
While fudge is a personal favorite, since I can’t
make it like Grandmother did or cause disruption in the family
by opening a can of marshmallow crème, I prefer to buy
fudge at Christmas. I don’t at all feel guilty in buying fudge
for the holidays since I am having a religious experience in doing
so.
You see, I buy fudge made by Brigitttine Monks
who, in addition to leading a spartan life of hours of daily prayer,
make hundreds of pounds of fudge each holiday season in the kitchens
of the Trappist Abbey outside of the small Western Oregon town
of Amity. I celebrate the true meaning of Christmas while eating
my fudge.
My
second most-favorite holiday candy is (drumroll please) chocolate
covered cherries. Home-made chocolate-covered cherries would take
oodles of cherries and untold hours of hand-labor to produce just
a few little candies, so no, I do not make them myself. I buy
box after box of chocolate-covered cherries and start eating the
little buggers the day after Thanksgiving and don’t stop until
well into the New Year. At that point I throw the last empty box
into the trash and don’t consider eating another chocolate-covered
cherry for the next 11 months or so.
My chocolate-covered cherries must be coated in
milk chocolate covering a cherry that is swimming in a liquid
center with a thick, white cream base. And I don’t buy Godiva
or ‘artisanal hand-made’ chocolate covered Bing cherries that
cost $5.00 apiece. For my taste, the best chocolate covered cherries
come 12 to a box and are sold in literally any supermarket in
the country, usually 2 boxes for $3.00.
For homemade candy this time of year, I limit
my candy-making to just one class of candy, those in the “hard-crack”
category, the big, bad, crunchy, tooth-splitting stuff made from
cooked butter and sugar.
“Hard-crack” candies are some of the easiest to
make because they require just a few ingredients. In addition
to butter, (no margarine during the holidays please), and sugar,
hard-crack candies might have a little water, corn syrup or vanilla
extract added to the candy base, but that’s about it, save for
a few added adornments of nuts or chocolate.
You do not need an expensive French-made, hand-tooled
copper pot in order to make good hard-crack candies. While some
candy-makers believe that sugar melts better in a copper pot,
the real trick to keeping granules of sugar from clinging to the
side of the pot during cooking is to stir. Stir, stir, and stir.
Start
stirring your candy with a metal wire whisk to dissolve the sugar
in the butter. Once the sugar is completely melted, switch to
a heavy wooden spoon and continue to stir. I find that stirring
some of the bubbling candy up against the sides of the pot help
to melt down any of those pesky granules that don’t want to comply
and be a part of the candy orgy going on in the center of the
pot.
It is crucial to pour the hot candy mixture out
onto a cookie sheet or sheet of parchment paper immediately at
the precise moment the candy hits the intended temperature. Failure
to do so and your wooden spoon will forever be embedded in a concrete
candy tomb in the pot.
Don’t forget to wear two heavy oven mitts or some
heat-resistant gloves. Hot, bubbling sugar can burn to the bone.
At this point you need to work very fast, spreading the hot candy
onto the parchment paper into a layer as thin as you can make
it. If you wait even a few seconds before spreading the candy,
it will harden to a point where no one, certainly not anyone with
dentures, will be able to chew through a two-inch thick piece
of the rock-like result.
Once
hard-crack candies have reached the right temperature, nuts are
often added. The final garnish, if you will, for a hard-crack
candy, might be a layer of melted milk chocolate and a final dusting
of chopped nuts.
Hard-crack candies take less than one hour to
morph from a pot of simmering sugar and butter to a beautiful
gold nugget of almond bark.