 History
tells us that man first came upon the idea of making cookery pots
out of clay during ancient times. Clay is a sticky, malleable form
of earth found in nearly all climates and geographical regions throughout
the world. When mixed with water, the sticky clay was easily molded
by hand and then "baked," probably first inside the fire, and then
in pits and ovens to cure the clay into its final, hardened form.
It didn't
take long for man to discover the art of glazing pottery. Herbs,
berries minerals and oils provided an unlimited palette of color
that was painted onto the pots both as symbolic decoration and to
help make the pot waterproof.
Pottery proved
to be an indispensable tool—it could withstand the rigors of
being trudged from camp to camp, suffer through unbearable winters
and scalding summers in the most inhospitable of conditions, and
finally, pottery could withstand literally hour upon hour stewing
over an intensely hot fire. In an era when fires were seldom allowed
to go out, they also helped keep them alight—shattered pot
pieces were spread across the embers at the end of the day and helped
keep them alive until the following morning when that day's fire
would be started from the remains of the day before.
In later times,
simple clay pots became associated with peasant cultures, although
many of the dishes we now associate with the poorer classes actually
began as staples enjoyed by all. "Pottages" were dishes made of
cereals or legumes. They were porridge-like in consistency and featured
at almost every course. They're rare now, but bread
sauce is a pottage that is still eaten in England, usually with
poultry.
Clay is a
porous material, allowing the internal temperature inside the pot
to stay hot while at the same time drawing out tiny wisps of steam.
Broth or stock is always added to a ceramic pot to keep it moist
and prevent the vessel from cracking.
The shape
and size of pottery cooking vessels is dictated as much by region
and culture as it is by the recipe that will be used.
 "Tajine,"
is the Arabic word for cooking pot. The tajine is a deep earthenware
dish with a conical shaped lid. The lid often has a small hole at
the top, which allows just a small bit of steam to escape during
cooking. Extra steam builds up on the sides of the conical lid and
drips down the sloped sides of the lid, adding extra liquid to the
pot. Today, many African and Middle Eastern restaurants bring individual
"tajine" serving pots to the table, a whimsical and entertaining
presentation.
In Asia, clay
pots are brought to the family table straight away from the fire.
The dome of the claypot is removed, releasing a billowing cloud
of hot, sweet perfume. The table is adorned with a number of accompaniments;
maybe a huge bowl of boiled egg noodles, garnishments of chopped,
fresh cilantro and green onions, fried strands of garlic and shallots,
an assortment of chilies and spicy bean pastes.
Europeans
tend to prefer large pottery roasters with very deep bottoms and
dome-shaped lids. The Austrian made "Schlemmertopf" brand is very
popular in America and the larger pots can hold up to two whole
chickens. In all cases, the pots would originally have been set
over the fire, or in some cases in it. The oven was a relatively
late development and temperature regulation was almost impossible
until the early 20th century. In many areas, there would be a single
community oven, used for baking everyone's bread. Even as ovens
came to be features of larger homes, they still only tended to be
used once or twice a week for baking bread.
Today, all
manner of clay pots adorn the shelves of kitchen stores, though
they do need some preparation before they are ready for use, many
need a good soak in water before cooking—check the manufacturer's
instructions.
Clay pot cookery
is one of the world's great culinary traditions, echoing the world's
great cuisines—a respect for the ingredients, integrity of
flavor, harmony between contrasting tastes and textures, each balancing,
yet not overpowering, the other.
At its best,
clay pot cookery is the food we associate with hearth and home,
it transcends ethnic and cultural boundaries, bringing people to
the table for the simple pleasure of sharing with others.
Claypot
Duck with Chinese Sausage in Aromatic Broth
Tajine
of Squash with Stewed Fruits and Coriander
Provencal
Lamb Stew with Cannelini Beans
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